Calí-N-Tito's

Athens, Georgia
(706) 227-9979
Price: $5-$10
(cash or check only)

By Jeff McLennan

Upon entering this Latin oasis on South Lumpkin Street, I felt I had been transported from Athens, Georgia to Havana, Cuba. Its décor, packed full of colorful nostalgic memorabilia from all over the Latin world, instantly takes you somewhere far away.

Located on the edge of the University of Georgia’s campus, Calì-N-Tito’s offers Athenians an escape from the fast-paced campus experience and provides an alternative to the vast amount of chains and fast food places in town.

All orders are taken inside at the quaint but cramped counter. When taking your order, the bilingual staff is eager to help out by explaining the dishes to newcomers. The kitchen staff is visible from the counter and appears to be in good spirits, even during this Sunday lunch rush.

After ordering, you are given a number and your food is delivered to your table by an attentive wait staff. Indoor seating is optional for cold days, but I recommend the outdoor tables.

Don’t forget to stop and look around before heading outside. Owner Bruno Rubio knows a thing or two about ambiance. The small indoor area seats about 30-40 people and is intricately decorated everywhere you look. Posters of various South American products adorn the brightly painted walls. Overhead is a random assortment of Latin knick-knacks like old guitars, wooden parrots, soccer balls, canned food items and decorative coconuts. Beat-up televisions playing MTV Latin America add to the upbeat Cuban/Peruvian vibe.

The outside patio brings to mind a Caribbean beach. Large palm trees are planted throughout the pebbled area and umbrellas accent the simple wooden tables. An old wooden fishing boat has been transformed into a unique fountain surrounded by colorful chairs for little kids. Festive lights hang over most of the place. Ceramic fire pits have also recently been added for colder days.

All the dishes are brought out in about 10 minutes, at the same time. Try the tostones for a perfect appetizer. These are green plantains sliced and fried to a golden brown, almost like a sweet and salty potato chip. This order was slightly over-fried, but the side of sauce (think Zax sauce from Zaxby’s) more than made up for it. The veggie and beef empanadas are fried pastries packed with corn, broccoli, cauliflower and cheese and served with a lime wedge. They are possibly the best little snacks in town. I recommend trying the veggie rather than the beef. They are guaranteed to be gone in no more than four satisfying bites.

For experimental types, the Cubano Especial has a little bit of everything. The grilled cuban bread is loaded with steak, hotdogs, ham, eggs, cheese, jalapenos, onions, lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise. The hotdogs have a distinct taste enhanced by the aroma of jalapenos. It’s not exactly the healthiest choice on the menu, but this massive sandwich can turn into two meals with a to-go box.

The fish taco is made with catfish and topped with cilantro, red onions, lettuce and tomato. It is served on a corn tortilla (flour is optional upon request) with a side of verde sauce. The taco was sadly more full of red onions and lettuce than fish. What fish it did contain was fresh, flavorful and fried in a light crispy batter.

Tito’s Big Burrito is served with chicken or steak and comes with lettuce, tomato, red and green peppers, mushrooms, rice and cheese. At $6.50, it is by far one of the best deals on the menu. The combination of ingredients is a delight to the senses.

The counter also offers a large variety of Latin sodas, from pineapple to guava. For dessert, there are hand-made fruit milkshakes. Try the mango, you won’t be disappointed.

For a Sunday afternoon, the chance to escape the Athens scene and be transported to the sights and smells of a Cuban beach is irresistible. Such a place brings much needed culture and unique cuisine to a market saturated with chain restaurants. It is an ideal place to get away with friends or a significant other. For romantic dates, I recommend visiting at night. It won’t disappoint. Where else can you truly feel transported in the midst of a college town?